Elbling & Germany, Northern Italy, & Loire Vally
The first off is the Elbling Sekt and Trocken from Hild. Elbling is a
grape very few people are familiar with or even make in the first
place and Matthias Hild makes undoubtedly the best expression of the
grape, farming old vine plots honestly and with love not found on an
industrial scale. It's one of those local grapes that exist everywhere
in Europe that started to be neglected or torn up for more
recognizable "brand name" grapes, in Germany's case Riesling which
dominates most German winemaking to the detriment of grapes like
elbling. Elbling produces light, bright, very low alcohol wines, the
kind of everyday drinking wines that Uzzi and I love. The importer
Stephen Bitterolf at Vom Boden has a great writeup here:
https://www.vomboden.com/growers/hild/
The second highlight is the Sfera Litro Bianco from I Clivi in Friuli.
The Sfera project is a collaboration between a group of winemakers to
make affordable liter bottlings. The magic here is that they're all
excellent producers, with I Clivi being one of the best. I Clivi is
perhaps the best holder of tradition in Friuli, when people like Josko
Gravner, Stanko Radikon, and Vodopivec started experimenting with
ancient skin practices years ago, the Zanusso family kept making the
still whites they were known for. I love these wines because of the
contrast they give to people like Vodopivec, who's wines we love. You
can drink this wine, a Ribolla Gialla side by side a Ribolla from
Radikon and see the differences in terroir expression and technique
between great winemakers. Their website is here and excellent writeup
from Importer Oliver McCrum, someone I consider to be one of the best
resources on Italian wine in america:
https://www.iclivi.wine/en/history/
http://omwines.com/iclivi
For reds this week I'll focus on the Grignolino d'Asti from La Miraja
Piedmont. The wine is made by Eugenio Gatti, a seventh generation
winemaker who is laser focused on some of the forgotten grapes of
Piedmont, where nebbiolo is king. He makes Barbera, Grignolino,
Freisa, and arguably the best Ruché anywhere which we will be bringing
in as soon as it's in stock. These wines are a stark counterpoint to
the brooding heavy Barolos and Barabarescos the region is known. They
are perfumed and bright and perfect for anyday.
https://thepiedmontguy.com/la-miraja
For bottles I was going to introduce you to a good friend Vincent
Wallard at Cuatro Manos in the Loire valley. I was introduced to
Vincent by Frantz Saumon, who's wines we carry. Vincent is a tall
gregarious farmer, as Loire Valley as a person can get, chainsmoking
with hands cut up from pruning vines. I always loved his gamays, light
like the best gamays can be, but also serious in a way that speaks to
serious time in the vineyards and a light but methodical touch in the
cellar. We have his Petit Nouveau Gamay, which was always my favorite.
We also carry his Tonto Rouge, a cabernet sauvignon/cabernet franc
blend from around Saumur. This is a blend common in Bordeaux, but the
characteristics are on a different planet. It's bright and
bell-peppery with minimal tannins. It's imported by one of our
absolute favorite producers and a good friend Steven Graf, and he did
a good write-up here:
https://www.stevengraf.wine/france-loire/cuatros-manos